One of the top reasons I wanted to visit northern Italy was to hike the Alpe di Suisi – the largest high-alpine meadow in Europe, spanning about 35 square miles within the Italian alps. Late last year, I watched a Rick Steves episode where it was featured and thought, “We have to go there!”

On our second full day in the Dolomites, we planned a perfect loop hike across the Alpe di Suisi. There was even a direct gondola to the area right from Ortisei – just a five minute walk away from our apartment. As the seven of us rode the gondola up that morning, we chatted away happily, enjoying fresh donuts from the local patisserie. It was a picture perfect day with full sun and white, puffy clouds – temperatures in the low 70s. Magnifico!

The view from the top of the mountain overlooking the Alpe di Siusi was just what I’d imagined…to quote Char, “This view is breathtaking!” The never-ending meadows popped with a lush carpet of green grass, filled with vibrant flowers that converged into dramatic mountain views in every direction. Once we caught our breath, it was time to hike!

Our first stop was only 20 minutes in…we visited a local hut with its own farm animals and a playground for kids. Many of the huts that dot the Alpe di Siusi are like this, with self-sustaining gardens and farms to supply fresh meals for weary hikers. We stopped to order coffees and a light breakfast while the girls explored the play area and met the animals.

Caffeinated with full bellies, we soon got back to hiking. We followed trail 9 to the little ski settlement of Saltria. It took about two hours with lots of photo stops because each time you rounded a bend there was another unbelievable view.

Just about this time, the weather started to change. It’s the mountains, so at any moment things can change. Knowing this, we had prepared with our rain jackets so the light drizzle wasn’t a big deal. It was also the perfect time to see refuge for lunch. We found another hut just a few steps away from Saltria for a light meal of dumplings and goulash soup.

This is when our idyllic hike took a slight turn… as we finished lunch, we realized the time was a bit later than we thought. It was 3 pm and the gondola to return to town closes at 5 pm. Eeek – this was going to make the hike back a little hectic.

We quickly paid up and began our trek back to the gondola – however, the trail map wasn’t clear and we spent a good 30 minutes trying to find the right path. To make matters more difficult, the light rain became a more consistent rain shower – not like a Florida deluge (thank goodness), but enough to soak our pants, socks, and shoes, while we trudged through the now grey Alpe di Siusi.

Still, we persisted! Ker and Michael forged ahead so they could make the gondola and possibly see if they would hold it for us (no such luck), while JR, the girls, and my mom, and I steadily hiked the rolling hills of the meadow back to our starting point. We knew there was a good chance we wouldn’t make it back in time, but we pushed forward regardless and talked through the different options we might have to get back down the mountain to Ortisei.

Finally, at 5:10 pm – wet and slightly bedraggled – we made it to the gondola to find it fully closed. JR and Lizzie had actually made it in time, but waited for Charlotte, my mom, and me so we weren’t alone. Luckily, the restaurant next to the gondola let us seek shelter inside, even though they were also closed.

And, as they say – all’s well that end’s well… The restaurant staff helped us call a local taxi that could drive up the mountain to take us back to our apartment, and even served us delicious mulled wine while we waited (and croissants for the kids). Our friendly taxi driver told us more about the area on our “tour” back to Ortisei with more beautiful mountain views along the way. That evening back at our apartment, we took the best hot showers of our life!

So, the Alpe di Siusi did not disappoint… in fact, it gave me (us) more than we bargained for, however, I wouldn’t trade those stunning views for anything!

PS – And next time, we won’t be missing our gondola!